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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 01-11-2017, 04:14 PM
    Gamle-ged
    As I recall the 2006 Azera was intended to compete in sales with the Avalon and the Buick LaCrosse...
  • 01-10-2017, 05:08 PM
    07azera
    "I don't think the V6 on the accords and camry's have that good of a power band" My bad, not Accord and Camry, should be Avalon and something else higher from Honda would a better comparison. I guess the real comparison should have been the 3.5 from toyota and the 3 liter from Honda in a similar application.
  • 01-10-2017, 04:50 PM
    07azera
    The power band is really good for the 3.8. I don't think the V6 on the accords and camry's have that good of a power band. That said 3.8 is lot of cubes for that class of sedan. The architecture of the engine looks semi japanese/german especially with the oil filter on top. Will try my tie rods replacement out tomorrow. Hopefully the weather holds up.
  • 01-08-2017, 07:11 PM
    Gamle-ged
    "But when I really looked at it, especially the rear quarters, its a real pretty car."

    I've referred to that as "wide hips!" The 3.8L power plant was the same as used in their SUV of that year. I'd read that in Korea, on a test track (likely with a light-weight driver and just enough gas in the tank to try) they managed to exceed the 160mph speedo. Also, supposedly the Azera, from a rolling start of about 55mph was, from that point, able to out-accelerate that year's Corvette...
  • 01-08-2017, 05:24 PM
    07azera
    62 vw bug and 65 karmann Ghia, that was when vw was something special, not anymore. I love german cars, they are some best cars to work on. They are put together in a logical manner. If you have the right tools, you wont sweat it. I had 2 bmw's from the early 90's, a 535i and 525it wagon. Now apart from the azera, I have 93 3000gt vr4 that I am building an engine for and an infiniti as daily. You get the picture. The Azera took me by surprise. My buddy has one and I wasnt convinced when I 1st saw it. But when I really looked at it, especially the rear quarters, its a real pretty car. Then I drove it and I loved ride. Especially on long trips. The 3.8 engine is a power house in that category. I think hyundai nailed that engine, its underrated.
    Update on the tie rods. The RF is frozen, got the nut loose, but couldn't loosen the outer tie rod. Then the cold chased me inside. I drove it about 250 miles plus this weekend. The tires I think are not helping. I may change them in future. Most likely will get the tie rods done next weekend, will update with pics. I may move this post to another thread by then. I tried uploading a pic of the new parts and required tool (never used a tie rod removal tool before ), Moog made in Korea and beck arnley, but couldn't. Dont know why
  • 01-06-2017, 05:02 PM
    Gamle-ged
    I let the dealer do all the work, only time I've not done so was back in the early '60s when I bought my first car, a '62 VW bug and then a '65 Karmann Ghia. When I bought the 2006, it was the first year for the Azera and I also bought an extended warranty. That paid off for me at the 90k mile point when the AC compressor and then the alternator needed replacing. A few minor items before that were under the original warranty, nothing significant. Most recently, out of pocket, were upper front control arms and sway bar links initiated by my hearing a squeak up front.

    They do a good job maintaining and I have the car professionally detailed annually, idea being that mechanically and visually, a good-looking, well running car keeps me from contracting new car fever! I keep a car "forever," with my previous cars having been 1977 and 1990 Accords, two cars spanning nearly 30 years, the two overlapping by about 6 years. I felt like a traitor in 2006, but the Accords then had the styling of half a hardboiled egg, and the Sonata tempted me and THEN I saw the Azera, and that was that...
  • 01-06-2017, 01:35 PM
    07azera
    The funny thing was when I bought the car I fixed the hood switch. I then left it at my buddy's place for week unlocked. I came back the following weekend, fired it up and started right up. Then I locked it went inside for about 3 hrs, came back out to find it dead (lol). Realized immediately it was the alarm system. Did a draw test and found 0.12 - 0.09 amps was the load when locked. Out of the 6 switches, I pulled 5 (hood and all 4 doors, left trunk). Draw dropped to 0.00 - 0.01 amps, just about 0 amps. I must be where the all switches are coming in, not just one. The draw did not change by pulling one switch. I will have to look at the schematic and figure out the wiring for the alarm system. it might be tied in with the radio, clock and all that good stuff (fun fun fun). But for now it does not drain, fine by me.

    This site was really helpful, a really good guide to figuring the car out. I am planing to do the tie rods, either today or tomorrow, depending on weather. That would be the acid test. Really not happy with the way the steering feels.
  • 01-06-2017, 02:07 AM
    Gamle-ged
    Welcome! That's a bunch of work, but you should have a good - looking and good -driving ride afterward. I have a bought -new 2006 now with 102,000 miles on it and I hope to see it hit 20 years or more. Looks like you've read a fair amount of info here or elsewhere and it's been helpful. The battery drain never got me, but I'm in the habit of listening for the "beep" and watching for the light flash when I lock it via remote, telling me that all the security switches are engaging. The most common problem seems to be the hood switch not properly making when the hood is closed...
  • 01-05-2017, 02:09 PM
    07azera

    Newbie 07 azera

    Hi everyone, bought a 1 owner 07 azera with a 100,300 miles for real cheap. Car was sitting for a awhile and had couple of issues.
    The reason why it was cheap was because it had the parasitic drain problem, drain the battery in 4-5 hrs. Apart from that, it needed brakes, front suspension was shot (Struts), and it drove like shopping cart.

    The Battery drain was a real turn off, but I gave it a shot and now there is zero draw when parked and locked. Put in new struts (never have i worked on coil springs that have to be compressed that much. Had to use a heavy duty compressors to get struts in), strut mounts and sway bar links (dont ask why). Did a full brake job, all 4 corners, discs and pads. Had a sticky caliper pin for FR, cleaned it out and now it stops. Car still drove like crap, numb steering, moves over bumps. Took it for an alignment, they said front right was frozen. Turn outs inner tie rods shot, my fault for not checking prior to alignment . Going to replace inners and outers and see whether it make a difference. I know tires are huge part, so dont kill me on that, car came all 4 new tires, but unknown brand "Auto Grip". I know don't laugh.

    Hopefully will replace ties rods this weekend and update.

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