Tie Rod Replacement (Inner and Outer both side)

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  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    9

    Tie Rod Replacement (Inner and Outer both side)

    Hi guys replaced the inner and outer tie rods on my cars. Refer to New Introduction for details on my car. FR was frozen and couldn't be aligned. Checked wheel on jacks and there play. Inners were shot. So 2 problems
    1, Couldn't be aligned because of frozen outer tie rod (FR)
    2, FR wheel had play

    Symptoms were poor handling, numb steering, cars move all over the road like a shopping cart. Now I don't know whether the tie rods are the only reason for the poor handling or not. Either-way the inner on the FR had to be changed, so I decided to do complete set for both wheels to get a base line.

    Tools
    17 MM wrench flat or Offset (ideal)
    25 MM wrench for tie rod adjustment nut and tie rod its self
    19 MM for new tie rod nut.
    Ball joint fork
    Screw Driver for inner boot (flat)
    Hammer
    PB Blaster or Free All (my Favorite)
    Inner tie rod removal tool set (Item#69619) - Really good tool (half inch). I think size is 33.5 mm or something
    Map Gas or Torch (only if frozen)

    Parts
    Outer Tie Rods - Moog
    Inner Tie rods - Beck arnley
    Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (OE clamp point of failure)

    I used 2 bottles of Map gas but the FR outer tie rod was frozen and wouldn't budge. So I decided to cut it. Cutting the outer tie rod is a last resort, because god forbid the inner is frozen, you would have remove the rack.
    Once I cut the tie rod, the special tool worked just fine. Thats when I found the point of failure which happen to be the clamp on the inner boot. The boot was in good condition, but water and dirt had leaked into boot. The factory clamp, is the one time use deal, that cant be tightened. So they probably got loose over time. It doesn't help with the fact that the rack doesn't have a decent lip for the boot to slip onto. I used the worm-drive clamp and tightened the heck out of it.

    The LF wasn't frozen and took about 20 mins to replace. Eye balled the alignment lol (Fun to do with a cut tie rod) and hit the road. It will definitely need a alignment, but the steering does feel way better. More feel and 2 fingers is all you need to make an adjustment. Once I get the alignment will update. Next job would be VCG's and tune up.

    Sorry still cant upload Pics, don't freaking know why.
    1.jpg
    3.jpg
    4.jpg
    5.jpg
    6.jpg
    Last edited by 07azera; 02-10-2017 at 12:17 PM.

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  3. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    9
    Here are the rest of the pics:
    7.jpg
    8.jpg
    9.jpg
    Tie rod removal.jpg
    Parts.jpg

  4. #3
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Nokomis, FL
    Posts
    937
    That is a scary amount of work!...

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  6. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    9
    well not really, if you have nothing better to do on the weekends and a decent quota of refreshing beverages. You good to go lol. I did the rear motor mount on a my buddies 06 azera without messing with the sub frame or lifting the engine. That was a bit more work. But to be honest these cars are not bad to work on. For a transverse mounted 3.8 V6, there is room to work. For comparison my 3000gt vr4 that I am rebuilding engine for. I had to remove the master cylinder to drop the engine back in. Once the engine was in, took me about 2 hrs to get the master cylinder back in. Ridiculous, thats just the master, you can imagine how long everything else takes.

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